Thursday, 8 July 2010

The E10 Project

I have this project which Lady doesn't take part in. In 2004 I started walking through this country from north to south on the E10 footpath. It crosses into the Czech Republic from Germany at Varnsdorf and leaves the country for Austria in the south near Vyssi Brod. The original idea was to walk one stage a month so the trip would be over within 2 years. This project has spent long periods on the back burner with the gas on low but it has always been kept on the cooker.
And so with 9 stages under my belt, about half way through and some 50km south of Prague, it was time to press on. There had been a week of very hot weather dampened down by some welcome heavy rain. Conditions were ideal and it only required the inspiration of reading of George's walking trip across the UK to get me back on the road.
An early start got me to the village of Obory (approx 49°41'N, 14°13'E) by 7.30, where I'd left off last year.

This part of the walk is not regularly walked, a sturdy hazel stick served as weapon against the undergrowth. I am not the first to have had difficulties here, a local legend tells of Jan Luxemburg (king of Bohemia in the early 14th century) who got lost here while hunting and built a chapel as thanks that he found his way out again. To tell the truth old JL was never really at home in Bohemia, he agreed to marry Eliska, the last of the Premyslid dynasty which went back to before St. Wenceslas. Jan brought his own men to Bohemia to serve under him which didn't endear him to the local nobility. His son, Karel, or Charles, was a different matter and a story for another day. No kings about today but four-legged friends:

The path then followed small roads giving a completely different rhythm to walking, the stick now employed as a propellor rather than for path construction. High octane fodder in the form of strawberry tart preceeded the descent to the Lisnicky stream where gold has been panned in past centuries. Any there?

After following the stream for a couple of kilometres the path climbs over a small hill to the village of Smolotely where there is a rundown chateau dating from around 1730, built on the site of a late gothic manor house.

The owners of the chateau introduced many exotic species of trees and shrubs during the late 19th century. They also planted an avenue of acacia trees, still quite small despite their age.

The path then follows the road to Bohostice where a pub provided a late lunch before the final kilometres (including a deviation due to creative navigation) to Kamenna, where today's stage finishes. Just a short walk to Cetyne to get the first of four buses to get home.


  1. Tramp - you finally got started again! Brilliant. I remember you sketching in some such plans in a comment way back. Really enjoying this ... Happy wandering.

  2. Hooray for you, Tramp! I am delighted that you have returned to your E10 walk. The photos were great, especially the ones of the horse, the stream, and the old manor house; they provided me with a sense of walking along with you. Most important, I seem to hear a little music returning to your voice. That's one of the many benefits of walking, especially when its done with a sense of purpose. I am looking forward to hearing reports about future stages on the walk.

  3. HI TRAMP-

    I so loved walking with you on this spectacular journey - your pictures brought it to life for me - I could feel the earth. I am inspired by your commitment to this journey - and I did tell you that my son lived in Prague for a year and traveled all over to Austria and other wonderful places. He so loved being there and hopes to return. Perhaps when he does he could find his way to you.
    Love to you my friend
    peace and hope.....

  4. Solitary
    I hope to do another couple of stages over the summer. I now wish I'd logged more of it from the beginning.

    The camera is new for me so the shots are as experimental as the writing. Sometimes I capture things better than others. I was interested in what you and Griz were discussing on this aspect.

    I was partly inspired by my mother who all my chilhood spoke of her love of the River Thames then after we grew up walked its length in stages upstream from London to its source.


  5. Just done a little research on the web about the European 'E' paths - I see that the E8 from Britain intersects with the E10 at some point (in Austria, I think).

    BTW, I liked your phrase 'creative navigation'!

  6. What a great project to be able to pick up when you have the time and inclination. Some beautifula places and fascinating history. Julie

  7. SW
    These "E" paths seem to be left to the individual countries to specify. Here, some of the E10 follows well-used footpaths visiting some popular hiking areas. In some places it is unclear on the ground (hence the creative navigation). In 2 places so far it has disappeared completely to reappear a few kilometres later. One of these was through Prague where it bids you farewell at the zoo on the northern suburbs and you can pick it up again at a railway station on the south of the city.
    Doing it stage by stage allows me to concentrate on the possible problems and places of interest one stage at a time. This also means that I don't plan too far ahead, I'm not sure how many more stages it will take, for example. As I have now passed the lattitude of my home it means more travelling for each stage so I might do some multiple stages towards the end...Tramp

    It gives me something to get away to and if I can't actually get away it gives me something to be planning.
    There is no substitute for being out there walking it but reading up on what's there is fascinating...Tramp